Some Advanced Dog Training Points you should know about CONDITIONING YOUR DOG by Adam G. Katz

Some Advanced Dog Training Points you should know about CONDITIONING YOUR DOG by Adam G. Katz

Akeisha wrote to me with some very good questions. Ive included her letter (and my responses) below:

[Akeisha] Hi its Akeisha again. I do see what you mean if it is on all the time the dog will soon forget it is on and then will behave regardless. Ok, so the dog never wears a buckle collar again? This is what irks me. I want to be able to control the dog regardless of what collar is on not just the pinch or it could be no collar at all and the dog still behaves. What if the owner for some reason takes off the collar then they put the buckle collar on for ID but then forget the pinch collar? Then there is no control.

[Adam] WRONG! The dog gets conditioned. Take off the collar for awhile. Doesn't matter.

[Akeisha] Do you ever in the training go back to the buckle collar after months of what you recommend with a dog that is happy with doing the commands?

[ Adam: ] Yes, the dog does the command because he is happy and he likes it. But eventually, there will be something that tempts him. This is where conditioning comes in.

Think of it like this: Youve lived in the same house for 10 years, right? You get up in the middle of the night and you reach for the light switch that is to the LEFT of the door. Pretty soon, you get conditioned to reach out to the LEFT of the door.

One day you travel and stay in a hotel. You wake up in the middle of the night and reach out to the LEFT of the door for the switch... even though you cognitively saw that the switch is on the RIGHT.

In fact, you may wake up for several nights-- perhaps even weeks or months-- and still reach out to the LEFT, even though the switch is now on the right. Some people will continue reaching to the LEFT for the rest of their lives. Some will begin reaching to the right.

Those people need to be reinforced. Get it?

[Akeisha] Motivational corrections if on the right dog won't frighten them or make them hate you I know but aren't there other ways except using the collar that will eventually be established thought training that will allow you to take the collar off and have control?

[ Adam: ] Yeah, this way you can take the collar off and have control, ONCE THE DOG IS CONDITIONED. But eventually you'll have to go back and reinforce, for most dogs. And definitely if you start expecting to work the dog around new distractions that it's never been proofed around, such as chickens if the dog has never seen chickens.

Look, I don't make the rules. The dog is not a robot that you can suddenly say, "He's done" and expect him to act consistently for the rest of his life. Like any relationship you have with another person, boundaries need to be established and maintained. The dog is like your wife or husband they will eventually test you. :)

[Akeisha] Last question, how can the dog not realize the don't have it on since it feels a lot different than the buckle? Its like my id around my neck at school I have gotten used to it but I do realize when it is off? Just for the record I have no problem with pinches, many members in my 4-H club use them and they work great on the right dog.

[ Adam: ] Because the way you should be using the pinch collar is that the dog (since he has limited reason and logic) does not KNOW that it is the pinch collar that allows you to give him good corrections. But it's more than the pinch collar. If I put the dog in a number of small yards, with no collar on ... and I'm able to chase him down and make him come back to me, if he doesn't come when I call... then the dog will learn THE UNDERLYING PREMISE that I can make him do it, if he doesn't. So, the pinch collar and the long line make my job easier, but ultimately, the dog knows (or he thinks at least) that I am a man of my word and when I tell him to do something: If he doesn't do it, I'm going to make him do it. And his life will be a lot more fun if he does it willingly. So the dog starts to extrapolate this principle to other commands, too.

[Akeisha] Hope I am not being irritating I just like to know why certain trainers value certain methods over others since I love competing in obedience with my dog.

[Adam:] Keep training. -Adam.

Do you want to be able to take your dog anywhere, and KNOW that he'll listen to you... even if tempted by another dog, a cat, or even a piece of food??? Then check out: "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History!" By Adam G. Katz, Owner of South Bay K-9 Academy. For more information, go to:
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The 7 Stages of Puppy Development by Charlie Lafave

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development by Charlie Lafave

In order to understand why your puppy doesnt listen to you at times, you need to understand each stage of development a puppy goes through as it matures.
Lets take a look at the different stages, but before we do, keep in mind that these stages are generalizationseach dog will progress at its own pace.

Stage 1: The Transitional Stage
2-3 Weeks
The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to three weeks, and its during this time that your puppys eyes will open, and hell slowly start to respond to light and movement and sounds around him. Hell become a little more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever home is.) Hell start to recognize mom and his littermates, and any objects you might place in the box.

Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage
3-4 Weeks
The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory development during this time. Fully alert to his environment, hell begin to recognize you and other family members. Its best to avoid loud noises or sudden changes during this periodnegative events can have a serious impact on his personality and development right now. Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so its essential that they stay with mom and littermates.

Stage 3: The Overlap Stage
4-7 Weeks
From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social development period of his lifehe learns social interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and learns bite inhibition.
Hell also learn discipline at this pointMom will begin weaning the pups around this time, and will start teaching them basic manners, including accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th weektransition gradually as Mom weans them.
Continue handling the pups daily, but dont separate them from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10 minutes per day. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and biting and have a more difficult time with socialization and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little longer - for optimum social development.
Experts say that the best time in a puppys life to learn social skills is between 3 and 16 weeks of agethats the window of opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted dog. Its extremely important to leave your puppy with Mom and his littermates during as much of this period as possible. Dont discipline for play fighting, housebreaking mistakes or mouthingthats all normal behavior for a puppy at this stage.

Stage 4: The Im Afraid of Everything Stage
8 Weeks to 3 Months
The Im Afraid of Everything Stage lasts from about 8 weeks to 3 months, and is characterized by rapid learning as well as a fearful period that usually pops up at around 8 to 10 weeks. Not all dogs experience this, but most do, and theyll appear terrified over things that they took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud voices or traumatic events.
At this time your puppys bladder and bowels are starting to come under much better control, and hes capable of sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come, sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. Its important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at this time, as hell continue to learn behaviors and manners that will affect him in later years.

Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage
3 Months to 4 Months
The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and its during this time your puppy is most like a toddler. Hell be a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands hes only recently learnedjust like a child does when theyre trying to exert their new-found independence. As in I dont have to listen to you! Firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training is whats required here.
He might start biting youplay biting or even a real attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp No! or No bite! command, followed by several minutes of ignoring him, should take care of this problem.
Continue to play with him and handle him on a daily basis, but dont play games like tug of war or wrestling with him. He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominanceespecially if he wins. And wrestling is another game that can rapidly get out of hand. As your puppys strength grows, hes going to want to play-fight to see whos strongereven if you win, the message your puppy receives is that its ok to fight with you. And thats not ok!

Stage 6: The Brat Stage
4-6 Months
The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months, and its during this time your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and willfulness. You may see a decline in his urge to please youexpect to see more testing the limits type of behaviors. Hell be going through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.
He may try to assert his new dominance over other family members, especially children. Continue his training in obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless youre in a confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dogs response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can resultso dont take the chance.
Hell now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you havent already, you should have him neutered during this time. (Or spayed if you have a female.)

Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage
6-18 Months
The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18 months, and is usually a great time in your dogs life - hes young, hes exuberant, hes full of beansand yet hes learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog.
Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this timejust because hes approaching his full growth and may look like an adult, hes not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training, if thats something both of you are interested in. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animalsallow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.
Congratulations! Youve raised your puppy through the 7 stages of childhood, er, I mean puppyhood, and now you have a grown-up, adult dog! Almost feels like youve raised a kid, doesnt it?
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