How To Stop Your Dog From Digging Holes In Your Garden by Adam G. Katz

How To Stop Your Dog From Digging Holes In Your Garden by Adam G. Katz

First, I need to figure out when he is digging. Since I know the dog and his lifestyle, I can rule out several factors such as boredom or puppyhood or gophers, etc...
I noticed that every time he would start digging holes he was in the yard playing with a friend's dog, unsupervised.
So, I first need to MAKE SURE that it was ACTUALLY MY DOG that was the perpetrator. A quick look at his feet would suggest that it was.
Next, I needed to figure out if he would dig ANY TIME he was left alone in the yard or if it was only when another dog was present.
To figure this out, I simply left the dog in the yard alone with access to the rose garden several times... and came back to find that he had not dug.
So... it stands to reason that the only time my dog is digging in the yard is when there is another dog in the yard. (Who knows why? There could be a million unexplained reasons that only the dog knows. All I need in order to fix the behavior is knowledge of the dog and the circumstances).
Now, I know that to fix any behavior problem I need to make the dog experience a NEGATIVE ASSOCIATION with the actual ACT of doing that behavior. In this case, digging in the garden.
And he needs to experience that same negative association EVERY TIME HE DIGS!
In this case, I must be 100% diligent to never leave Forbes unsupervised in the yard when there is another dog in the yard.
Of course, if he was digging by himself, then I'd need to confine him to a kennel run where he cannot dig when I'm not supervising him. Or if there is another dog visiting then I will need to bring Forbes inside, put him in the kennel run, or use the presence of the other dog as a "set up."
The next step is to make sure that he associates that negative (correction) just as he starts to dig.
There are two ways I can do this: The Lazy Man's Way and the Old Fashioned Way. Both methods are based on the same principle.
The Old Fashioned Way to make sure that the dog gets a motivational negative association when he digs is to:
Step 1.) Leave a pinch collar and tab (one foot leash) on the dog when he's outside in the yard with another dog.
Step 2.) Bury hardware mesh or chicken wire in the spot where he's been digging. The chicken wire should be buried two to three inches below the surface. Dogs don't like scraping their paws against this stuff. So, right off the bat you've got an immediate negative association.
Step 3.) Spy on him and just wait until he start to dig.
Step 4.) As soon as he begins to dig, yell "No No No!" as you run outside and give the dog a correction. As long as you continue to say "No no no" as you run to the dog, the dog WILL still associate the correction with the behavior.
Step 5.) Be 100% consistent until you are 100% sure that the dog isn't digging any more.
The Lazy Man's Way to fix this problem behavior is to use a remote electronic collar (e-collar). Everything else remains the same. (Click on the link above to read about my recommendations for buying a remote electronic training collar).
When using the e-collar for this behavior, I'd turn the setting up to the high level. Your goal is to create absolute avoidance to this behavior (digging in the garden). And you want him to think that the dirt just jumped up and bit him! Usually if you correct the dog with the electronic collar for this type of behavior, you've only got to do it twice before the dog decides that it's in his best interest to leave your garden alone.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below):
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq
About the Author
Author, Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer! which you can read more about at:
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

How Long Should You Run Your Dog For? by Adam G. Katz

How Long Should You Run Your Dog For? by Adam G. Katz

Dear Adam:

I have a Shepherd/Malamute "Newt." She's great. I have a couple of problems with her but I won't waste your time with them as I have found them addressed at your site and in your book.

I "run" Newt in the bush, she is either in front of the truck or behind it, running as fast as she can. I stop when she slows down and we take a 5-10 minute break. Each time we stop, I open the door to the truck and let her decide if she's had enough. Lately it's been me who has had enough (she wants to run for longer and longer periods of time) and I tell her to get into the truck. My question: Should I limit how far she runs (for her own good) and can it be too cold for a long run?

Regards,
Sally.

Dear Sally:

Thanks for the question.

To be honest... I don't know.

Usually my advice is to let common sense rule. But to be specific, it's really a health question that you should consult with your veterinarian before beginning any extensive exercise program with your dog.

As a general rule, you need to build up your dog's endurance. I usually start a dog at a 10 to 15 minute jog, and over the course of several weeks, gradually build up the duration to anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes, depending on your dog.

By the way... it's best to run your dog on dirt, gravel, sand or grass. Running your dog on concrete should be avoided if possible.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): http://tinyurl.com/4efaq
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!
About the Author
Author, Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer! which you can read more about at:
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

Body Language Before Dog Bites by Adam G. Katz

Body Language Before Dog Bites by Adam G. Katz

Dear Adam:

After catching up on doggy email, I've noticed your reference to submissive posture. Your book helped more than a professional trainer I hired for my adopted Golden. We went through biting and dominance issues. The problem I am having now is I still do not trust him 100%. When he bit there really wasn't any sign it was coming (that I noticed). Even now, the only sign that he doesn't like something is a lowered head and sometimes a low growl (the groomer told me this). This dog growls sometimes when he is happy. It is almost like someone taught him not to make any other noise in doors. Outside he will bark. I guess the big question is how do you read a dog's face, body, etc.?

Thanks,
Mark.

Dear Mark:

It's a tough situation you've got. You've really got to just pay close attention to the dog at any time you suspect she may display the aggression. The most common indicators that I used when working with clients who had aggressive dogs was to watch:

1. The mouth. A dog will always pull has mouth closed tight just before he bites.

2. Body language. The dog's body language will get stiff and still just before he bites. Especially watch the stillness. It's very subtle, but at the same time very noticeable once you train your eye to look for it.

There are other things that you could look for depending on the dog and the type of aggression. However, you need to recognize that there are ALWAYS cues... it's just a matter of whether we are quick enough (or aware enough) to catch them.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): http://tinyurl.com/4efaq
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!
About the Author
Author, Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer! which you can read more about at:
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq